Last



Ofi 23 1928 J. J. MA1-man LAST Filed Sept. 18, 1924 AP 'ateritecl Oct. 23, 1928.

y UNITED :STATES 1,688,466 PATENT, oFFicE.

JoHNJ. MAHLER, or NEWYOREN. Y., AssIGNoR To UNITED sHoE MACHINERY coR- roRA'rioN, 0E rA'rERsoN, NEW JERSEY, AcoRPoRATIoNoE NEW JERSEY.

LAST.

Application filed September 18, 1924. Serial No. 738,426. l

superior quality Vhave been produced and it.

is an object o1 this invention to provide an improved last which, Without sacrificing any ot' the advantages ot my prior invention, will still `t'urther licilitate the manufacture of stitchdown shoes.

As has been fully set forth in my prior application above referred to, one ot the conditions which has vprevented more'extended commercial success of the stitchdown type of shoe has been the ditliculty of making shoes ot this type in which the upper and Welt Were secured su'iciently over the last bottom to provide a Well delined Welt crease such as is characteristicot,Well made shoes ot other lrinds. JAccordingly, another object of this-L invention is to provide an improved last by the use of Which a Well delinod Welt crease may be produced.

Furtherobjects of thevinvention are toV provide a lastv having a Well defined corner adjacent to its bottom over which the upper is lasted and4 shaped sothatthe upper of a shoe made thereon Will have a Well definedv line about its greatest periphery and the appearance ot the shoe Will be thereby im-y proved; to provide a last so constructed as toaliord more room for the nozzle of a staple lasting machine to enable it to Work the upper farther over the last bottom and to avoid obl jectionable-bending of the margin of the sole to which the upper is stapled out ot' the plane ot its central portion; and to provide a last by the use of which thetable or' the outsole stitching machine can force the upper andv Welt inwardly beyond/thekline ot' greatest CII periphery ot the last and closely against the edge tace et the inners'ole.

Vith these obfects in view, invention consist in a last having a reentrant angular space about the toiepart between the side of the last and the bottom ot the last and outside of the area. covered by theinnersole. This space may, as shown herein, be provided by forming a rabbet in the last at the edge of the last bottom, the sides of the rabbet beingpreferably the one parallel to and the other perpendicular to the last bottom. The side of the rabb'et may be substantially equal to eachother in. Width or, as

'to the kind of shoe being shown, the side of the rabbet Which is'pai'allel to thc last bottom may be slightly Wider than the side which is perpendicular to the lastbottom. The width of these sides may vary with respect to each other andeither ory bothmay be Wider or narrower, according made or other Workingl conditions. In the drawings, l

. Fig. 1 is a bottom view of a last embodying i tlie'present invention Fig. 2'is a. transverse section of the last on the line 2 2 of Fig. 1;'

Fig.3 is a transverse section, on an enlarged scale, of the last and a partly com-y pleted shoe showing the operation of stapling theupper toa middle sole ;y v I Fig. .4 is a transverse section, on an enlarged scale, of the last and ashoe during the attachment of the Welt and out-sole;

. Fig. 5 vis a transverse section, on an en.- larged scale, o1' the last and a completed shoe; and i I i Fig. 6 is a perspective vieu7 oftheforepart of a shoe partly broken awayto expose them -last and show ythe shoestructure. i Y Y .7A last 2en'ib0dying the present invention,

as shown in Fig. 1, is, in general, of theusual typeY used. in the` manufacture i ofv Welt shoes, the bottomjbeing of Wood. except at the heelseat Wherethe usual metal plate 4 is provided. About they forepart 6 of theA last from one end of t-heba'll line Vto the other-end of the ball line a rabbet 8 is formed WhichV has nearly equal sides, one side 10 being, as shoivn, 'sub- 'stantially perpendicular to the last bottomand the other side 12 beingrsubstantially parallel to the lastbottom, the sides meeting at "substantially alright angle'lf. The rabbet therefore forms a reentrant angle between the side ot the lastland the bottom of the last. y The dimensions of the rabbet may, ot

. Y o fcourse, be varied Without departing from the features ot the goed results are obtained When'the side v10 of th'e'rabbet is 5/64 and the side'12'is 7/64 invention. It has been found in practice that of an inch in Width. The dimensions of the rabbet are preferably the same in all sizes of lasts of a given style. As shown, the dimen- .sions oit the rabbet are uniform throughout its extent.

It is to be understood that'although the last is Well adapted for use in the manufactureV ot single-sole or two-,sole stitchdown shoes, it is of special utility When employed in the manufacture ot threeesole stitchdown slices7 as here'in'shown. An innersole a' is provided which will cover the bottom ofthe last and liev withits edge face substantially `lushwith the sicleLlOQof the rabbet. 'This bythe use of a stitchdown staple lasting machine. In this operation the upper is drawn down the side` of the last and against the sharp angle lformed by the side of the last and the side l2 of the rabbet, so that a well defined line is produced about the shoe at its greatest v'periphery similar to that produced in a welt yshoe in'lastingthe `upper over the feather of the innerso'le. The upper;

is forced irmlyv against the middle sole 0 at a point inwardly ofthe 'said angle 1G and stapled to the middle sole lby a( clinched staple e,

the upper to be held inlasted positionabout "the periphery of the last. Invthis operation the upper land lining are more or less bridged across the angle formed by the side 12 of the -rabbet and the' side l() of the rabbet plus the thickness of the innersole a, this angle affording ample spacefor'the operation of the staplenozzle in crowding theiupperinto the angle between the edger'ace ot' the innersole and theprojeetionof' the middle sole c. The driver of the stapling vmachine projects slightly beyond theend of the nozzle atthe I completion of its driving movement` and hence causes the staple to draw `the upperl more sharply into the angle between the edge face of the innersoie and the proj ection of the middle sole thanlis accomplished by the'action of the nozzle alone.

'outsole sewing' machine.

The shoe is now ready for the attachment ot an loutsole f which is of thersame size as the middle sole c. The'ifastenings holding the middle s ole c to the last are removed, the outsole laid and the slioepi'esented Ato the In thisy operation, as indicated' in Fig. ha stitchdown welt g is guided by the work table l0 of the machine his operation being repeated, l ofV course, a sulticient. number of 'times to cause into posi-tion o-n thejtlan'gefof the outturned upper and is forced, with the upper, well into the reentraiit angle between the side of the lastl and the bottom of the last. The pres* Asure ofthe inner edo'e taeeoi theweltavainst the Lipper' forces itA against'the edge face of Vthe innei-sole ci and reduces the length of the bridged portion of the upper. A short portion,ho`we\'7er7 will still be bridged across the angle of the rabbet and will enable t-he weit, under varying conditions of the shoe materials, topress the upper against the edge face of the innersole at all points about'the pe-V ripheryot the shoe. The outsole stitches l'are indicated at 7L.

welt to be carried 'well under theoverhang ot the last and effectively concealed; it provides a sharp angle between the side of the last and the sidel2 et the rabbet which gives a ldefinite line to the shoe upper about the periphery of the shoe and improves its appearance; it, togetherl with the thickness oit Athe' innersole,` provides space for the operation of the staple nozzle so that theusual tendency forv the margin of the middle sole to be bent out of the plane of the last bottom 17o The lprovision 'of a "rabbet at the edge of the last bottom venables the inner edgefof the during the stapling operationA is minimized;

and it enables the shoe to be given a well de-" lined welt crease which enhances the appearanceoi the shoeand increases its market value. v

Having thus 4described my invention, what I claim as new and desire' to secure by Let-v tersPatent of the United States is:

l.k A` last 'ior use in themanut'ac'ture of stitc-hdown shoes having about its forepart a reentrant angle formed by plane vsurfaces be tween thefside ofthe lastand thebottom Vof 4the last. 1 1

QJA last'for use in the manufacture of stitchdown Vshoes having between the side of the last and the last bottom a reentrantvangle one side of which is perpendicular to the last bottom and the other` side of which is parallel to the last bottom.

A 3. A` last for use in the'nianufacti'ire' of stitchdown shoes having a right angled rabbet between the side face ofthe last and the lastbottom, said rabbet extending about the orepart only of the last.

y In testimony whereof I have signed.myv

nameto this specification.

JoifiN J. iii-Annen;

ieu 

